Date: April 17th 2008

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What a wonderful first sandal-wearing day of spring this was --a perfect day to fling off whatever stingy, wintry, bah-humbug-ish tendencies you may have, and embrace life anew. And what better symbol of new life than the egg.

 

A truly good egg is laid by a mentally and physically healthy hen. She is free-ranging, eats organic feed and insects and grass and weeds and rocks . . . and produces an egg with a viscous white and a high, plump yolk that is rich and delicious. And that’s what we’ve got for you (and your Seder plate).

 

Unfortunately, I need to be in Wisconsin for the next couple of days, but the fine fresh eggs in question can be had by calling or emailing Joel Smith at 773-477-0792 or jasmith@jasmith.net, and arranging to pick them up from 442 W. Aldine – noonish, or after 5 any day is fine.

 

There are a total of about 25 dozen chicken eggs ($4.50) and 8 dozen duck eggs ($8), so make your arrangements asap. (All are certified organic, from happy hens raised by our neighbors Dennis and Emily Wettstein.)

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Now that you have your fine fresh egg, what to do with it? As with most good things in life, you should mostly stay out of its way. Here’s what the late, great Laurie Colwin wrote in her collection of short essays, More Home Cooking.

 

In my opinion, the perfect form of egg is sunny side up, very gently cooked and covered until a pink, filmy veil forms over the yolk. These eggs should be served with very lightly buttered toast . . . Both eggs and toast get the merest sprinkle of salt and nothing else. You do not eat these for breakfast: You eat them for dinner, when you are fully awake.

 

 

 

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