Date: April 17th 2008
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What a wonderful first
sandal-wearing day of spring this was --a perfect day to fling off whatever
stingy, wintry, bah-humbug-ish tendencies you may have, and embrace life
anew. And what better symbol of new life
than the egg.
A truly good egg is laid by a
mentally and physically healthy hen. She is free-ranging, eats organic feed and
insects and grass and weeds and rocks . . . and produces an egg with a viscous
white and a high, plump yolk that is rich and delicious. And that’s what we’ve got for you (and your
Seder plate).
Unfortunately, I need to be
in Wisconsin for the next couple of days, but the fine fresh eggs in question
can be had by calling or emailing Joel Smith at 773-477-0792 or jasmith@jasmith.net, and
arranging to pick them up from 442 W. Aldine – noonish, or after 5 any day
is fine.
There are a total of about 25
dozen chicken eggs ($4.50) and 8 dozen duck eggs ($8), so make your
arrangements asap. (All are certified
organic, from happy hens raised by our neighbors Dennis and Emily Wettstein.)
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Now that you have your fine
fresh egg, what to do with it? As with
most good things in life, you should mostly stay out of its way. Here’s
what the late, great Laurie Colwin wrote in her collection of short essays, More
Home Cooking.
In my opinion, the perfect
form of egg is sunny side up, very gently cooked and covered until a pink,
filmy veil forms over the yolk. These
eggs should be served with very lightly buttered toast . . . Both eggs and
toast get the merest sprinkle of salt and nothing else. You do not eat these
for breakfast: You eat them for dinner, when you are fully awake.
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Food and Farm Notes: A weekly peek at what's happening on Henry's Farm and what's coming to market, and what to do with it (with a side helping of poetry, science, philosophy, and what have you)
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