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FARM NOTES: Last market at last . . .

 

We have once again traveled with you from spring equinox to summer solstice to autumn equinox . . . and as we wind up yet another growing season, old bittersweet feelings return. There is sadness that the season of growth is over, and that green life will soon sink into black earth--that divine sepulcher of deeper life, to be covered by a blanket of white snow. But, at the same time, there is always the quiet sense of completion.

 

The completion and fulfillment come from the turning of the seasons, and also from the partnership between you, our loyal customers (or “co-producers” – see Carlo Petrini’s explanation in the green box at the bottom of this email) and the many hands that worked the soil, planted the seeds, hoed the long rows, mulched them, staked the tomatoes, and harvested, harvested, harvested . . . to bring, literally, tons of good food to your tables.

 

Those hands include Henry’s and Hiroko’s, their children Asa’s, Zoe’s, and Kazami’s. Also our parents’ Herman’s (champion potato-digger) and Marlene’s (champion tomato-sorter). And farmhand Matt’s. And intern Courtney’s. And Andy’s. And many others . . . our Nature Conservancy friends Bob and Renee, our market helpers Marjorie, Jen, and Jonathan ... and so many others. All these hands create a brief, simple, and perfectly transparent food chain that links us to each other and to the earth.

 

If you’ve been to Henry’s Farm (or even to the website, www.henrysfarm.com), you know and can picture the oak-hickory forested hills surrounding the rich bowl of bottomland that nourished the vegetables that are nourishing you. Producing and eating good local food is a wonderful way to engage the world that sustains us. Like all the best pleasures, the pleasure of a real meal is based on knowledge. We don’t give you “happy meals”, but “real meals.” Through these Food & Farm Notes, and through talking with Henry and the workers at the market, you know the true cost of this food, the precise sacrifice of time and energy it entails. And you can rest assured that your meals have been fully paid for, with no environmental or social justice debts outstanding.

 

The diversity and beauty of Henry’s and Teresa’s farmstands mirror the diversity and beauty of nature. As Michael Pollan reminds us: “We eat by the grace of nature, not industry, and what we’re eating is never anything more or less than the body of the world.”

 

SONG OF THE TASTE

by Gary Snyder, from Regarding Wave

 

Eating the living germs of grasses

Eating the ova of large birds

    the fleshy sweetness packed

    around the sperm of swaying trees

The muscles of the flanks and thighs of

                 soft-voiced cows

    the bounce in the lamb's leap

    the swish in the ox's tail

 

Eating roots grown swoll

                inside the soil

 

Drawing on life of living

    clustered points of light spun

                out of space

hidden in the grape.

 

Eating each other's seed

                      eating

    ah, each other.

 

Kissing the lover in the mouth of bread:

                      lip to lip.

 

 

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With forecasts calling for lows in the mid-20’s, Henry and the crew have been on several rescue missions since you last saw him two weeks ago -- busily cutting and pulling your produce out of harm’s way. They spent most of today harvesting all your greens – the chois, kales, collards, and especially the lettuces and spinaches, which Henry declared to be in “record-breaking amounts” for this late in the season.

 

In fact, there was so much lovely, thick-leaved, sweet-tasting, late fall spinach, that everyone was picking it for five cold hours straight. “Everyone” included Jonathan and Jen, Evanston residents who have helped sell at nearly every market this season. During the marathon harvest, Jen admitted she had a whole new appreciation for the numbing work involved in harvesting end-of-season spinach, and she just shook her head, quietly saying, “I just never knew . . .”. Like the painful hard-earned knowledge that fosters such appreciation, the result is rich and sweet and complex.

 

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Because I was in Mexico for the past week (a Slow Food congress), I wasn’t able to write the usual Notes for Henry’s mid-week downstate CSA, so Henry had to write them himself. He so seldom has time to write, but writes so concretely and so well, that I want to share it with you.

 

Henry writes: On Monday we were out pulling all the more freeze-susceptible roots, mainly the different kinds of turnips and winter radishes. Those roots stick slightly out of the ground and when it starts getting down in the 20’s, the part that sticks out of the ground freezes solid. It thaws out during the day and the plant keeps on growing, but once frozen like that the root won’t store nearly as long and the frozen part loses some flavor and texture.  We pull the plants, tear off the tops and put the loose roots in boxes.

 

Later this week, I’ll wash all the roots and most of them will be used up over the last two CSAs and my last Evanston market. What’s left will go into the storage pit for our winter usage.

Freezing chois for winter stir-fries. Take any of the greens you don’t think you’ll be able to eat this week—I would recommend the kale, komatsuna, bok choi and Ruby Streaks—and put them into the freezer for winter stir-fries, soups and anything else. All you need to do is blanch the greens in boiling water for a couple minutes, then cool them rapidly in cold water, squeeze out excess water, pack in ziplock freezer bags and place them in the freezer.

 

Also, don’t be afraid to use the greens for salads. Make your own mesclun this week. Chop up some Chinese cabbage, komatsuna  and Ruby Streaks and throw it in with your lettuce. Slice the bok choi stems into hefty slivers for a nice crunch. I like to sliver up fennel as well in my salad. Even the kale, if you sort out the smaller leaves, is tender enough to eat raw.

 

Finally, you can hold the greens for a few weeks just by putting them as they are in a plastic bag in your refrigerator. The Chinese cabbage, in particular, can be stored for a month at least. You might have to throw away some outer leaves at that point, but the rest will be perfect.

 

One final point about the greens. Just because we went through a couple really cold nights and just because we went out on a rescue mission doesn’t necessarily mean you’ve seen the last of the greens from the field. All the greens that we are picking now are very cold-hardy. They won’t be killed off until temperatures don’t rise above 32 all day long. The two nights in the mid-20s last week did hurt these cold-hardy veggies.  The outer leaves freeze, which means the water in the plant cells freezes, crystallizes and ruptures the cell walls. That causes the leaves to wilt and droop and if you tried to eat them they would be soft and rubbery.

 

However, the plants themselves are still alive and still growing. When the weather warmed up again and we had a string of nights that didn’t go below freezing, the smaller interior leaves that were protected by the outer leaves kept growing and brand-new perfect leaves developed. The accumulation of these hard freezes makes it harder and harder for me to find enough of those good, undamaged leaves, but it is those fabulous new greens that you’ll see – in record-breaking amounts.

 

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INDOOR/OUTDOOR FARMERS MARKET

Saturday, November 17

Immanuel Lutheran Church

616 Lake Street (Sherman and Lake), Evanston
9 a.m.-2 p.m.

 

Please note the start time: 9 a.m. We love all you early birds, but folks living around the church have called the police in recent years, complaining of the noise, and since we don’t want them to shut this market down, the rule is that we cannot even open the back door of the truck until 7, and we need at least an hour to set up . . . so please, get some sleep! If you must come early, please only come 1 hour early -- around 8 a.m. is the earliest we’ll be able to sell you anything.

 

 

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Think: Holiday Gifts, Host and Hostess Gifts . . .

Gifts for The Land and for YOU!

Think: Land Connection Farmer-Annotated Calendars

This market will be the last occasion for you to buy the beautiful (and educational) Farmer-Annotated calendar, A Year on the Land. With this calendar on your wall, you’ll know exactly what Henry is doing each week of the year, and you’ll be prepared for the peak week of tomatoes, or beans, or corn . . . and also be privy to the secret lives of bees, goats, fruit trees, and more. For a sneak preview take a look at http://www.thelandconnection.org/get_involved/calendar.cfm

 

We’ll have plenty of calendars at the market, or you can order them securely online at the above URL.

 

No matter how you buy it, your calendar purchase supports The Land Connection in its work of preserving farmland, transitioning it to organic, training new farmers and connection farmers and consumers. Thank you!

 

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FOOD NOTES: Highlights of the Pre-Thanksgiving Market . . .

 

Gorgeous Autumn Greens

Henry told me that many of you took our advice to buy up the broccoli raab in bulk two weeks ago, and freeze some for winter. You should do the same this week with the spinach and all the beautiful chois. Consider buying 5 (or 10!) bunches, and cooking them down to put in freezer bags for later. It’s very easy to do (instructions below), and super-easy to use in the depths of winter . . . simply heat in the microwave or in a wok, adding the garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, or whatever flavors appeal to you. We guarantee that your frozen greens will taste fresher than any “fresh” produce you can possibly buy in the stores in December or January.

 

Sweet Potatoes

It turned out to be a better sweet potato year than Henry expected, so they’ll be a lot coming up for you. Henry cures all the sweet potatoes so that they will last perfectly for months if you keep them a dark, dry place, between 55 and 72 degrees. We were eating perfect sweet potatoes clear into April this year.

 

Leeks

Leeks have been around for a very long time. The ancient Romans were particularly fond of them. The first century Roman Cookery of Apicius includes seventeen recipes for leeks. Among them are fabulous-sounding dishes such as leeks stewed with shell beans in white wine, beets and leeks in raisin sauce, leeks and celery poached with honey and pepper, leek sauce with pepper for braised meats, fish fillets with leeks and coriander, and leeks with truffles. The Roman tradition continues all over Europe and the Middle East, where nearly every shopper’s market basket contains a pound or more of leeks. Large leeks are good for stuffing and for making soups. But small or medium leeks like the ones Henry is bringing have a much better texture and taste.

 

Daikon

The name (dai = large or great; kon = root) reveals that this is a large radish—but the more radish, the more you can do with it. Daikon have a medium bite when raw, but are very mellow when cooked. Raw daikon can be grated, slivered, diced, or sliced to add its crunch and zip to relishes and salads. For salads, thin-sliced daikon is especially good with carrot and sesame (seeds and/or oil). Stir-fried daikon slices, strips, or cubes are turnipy-sweet. Chunks of daikon boiled briefly in miso or another broth make a mild and delicious soup.

 

And for an uncommon cure to the common cold, try Mrs. Takayasu’s wonderful Daikon with Lemon: Thinly slice half moons of equal amounts of lemon and daikon. Add sugar to taste. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours. Eat the lemon and daikon and drink the liquid – they’ll cure whatever ails you!

 

Lettuces

Fall lettuce, like fall spinach, is extraordinarily tasty. And, because it’s gone through a fair bit of cold weather, it will keep well for weeks in your refrigerator. Stock up!

 

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How to Freeze Greens

 

All the Asian Greens freeze extremely well, so . . .

Put a pot of salted water on to boil. While you’re waiting for it, rinse the greens and coarsely chop them. Then, when the water’s boiling, put lots and lots of greens in . . . they melt down as they hit the hot water, and you’ll be surprised how many chopped greens will fit into one pot.

 

Bring the pot back to a boil for just a minute or so, then drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. You want them tender-crisp, just a minute or two shy of being cooked they way you’ll want them in the end. Then fill the freezer bags, and put them in the freezer and you’re done, until, a few weeks or months from now, you crave some farm-fresh greens, and voila, there they are, waiting for a microwave or a pot of boiling water to bring them back to the exact taste, nutrition and freshness you had the day you froze them.

 

 

CHOI Recipes

 

Garlic Choi

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

4 teaspoons minced garlic

2 or 3 bunches any choi

2 cups chicken stock or canned low-salt broth

 

Melt butter in heavy large skillet over high heat. Add garlic; sauté 1 minute. Add choi and stock; simmer until tender, turning occasionally, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

 

Stir-Fried Choi

1 or 2 bunches komatsu-na, bok choi, or tah tsai

2 tablespoons water

1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons oyster sauce

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

 

Trim choi and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. In a bowl stir together water and soy and oyster sauces. In a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, and stir-fry choi with salt 2 minutes. Add soy mixture and butter and stir-fry until choi is crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes.

 

Leeks

Although leeks nearly disappeared from the tables of the gentry throughout northern Europe in the 16^th and 17^th centuries, they kept going strong in solid peasant fare. One of the less-known, but more delicious versions of champ is Leek Champ. (“Champ” is one of the best-loved ways of cooking potatoes in Ireland. Simply boil them, mash them with some boiled milk, and stir in a green vegetable such as scallions, chives, nettles, peas, or leeks. Serve the creamy, green-flecked mixture with a big knob of yellow butter melting in the center.)

 

Leek Champ

(adapted from Irish Traditional Cooking, by Darina Allen, published by Gil and Macmillan, 1995)

 

1 pound potatoes

12 oz leeks

1-2 Tb butter

1 cup (or more, depending on dryness of potatoes) milk

salt and freshly ground pepper

 

1.      Scrub the potatoes and cook in boiling salted water until cooked through.

2.      Meanwhile, wash and slice the leeks into thin rounds. If the leeks are gritty, slice them longitudinally and rinse well before slicing.

3.      Melt one tablespoon butter in a heavy pot. Toss in the leeks and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and cook on low heat until soft and tender, 15-20 minutes.

4.      As soon as the potatoes are cooked, drain, peel, and mash.

5.      Bring the milk to the boiling point in a small pan. Beat the buttered leeks and their juices into the potatoes along with enough boiled milk to make a soft texture. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately with a lump of butter melting in the center. Serves 4.

 

Classic Leek and Potato Soup

One pound potatoes

1/2 pound leeks

3/4 cup crème fraiche or heavy cream

salt and freshly ground pepper

3 Tb chopped fresh tarragon or chervil for garnish

 

1.      Combine the potatoes, leeks, and one quart water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat and simmer gently until vegetables are very soft, 35-40 minutes.

2.      Puree the soup in a food processor and return to the saucepan. Stir in the crème fraiche and cook over low heat just until heated through. Adjust the seasoning and serve, garnished with the fresh herb.

 

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Carlo Petrini speaks on “Good, Clean, and Fair” Food

 

As consumers, we have been progressively distanced from production, so much so that nowadays we know little or nothing about it. We are no longer able to recognize the quality of a product, nor are we capable of taking the responsible, conscious decision NOT to support producers who do their job badly.

 

Quality is not simply a question of food safety or even of taste and aroma. Food is of top quality if it is sustainable environmentally (does not threaten biodiversity or ecosystems) and socially (does not exploit workers). Quality is a matter of taste, environment, and social context.

 

We must have the strength to give the food economy back to the citizens, because food must be good, clean and fair.

 

Good, absolutely good, so that we are not condemned to eat badly! Even during the historic troubles of Italy, many of my gastronome friends speak of the “Italian memory”. The Italian gastronomic memory has a name: hunger. Built into this memory is the wisdom of many women, which brought about, along with a subsistence economy, some masterpieces, very simple, but good.

 

Clean, because one cannot produce nourishment by straining ecosystems, ruining the air, and destroying biodiversity.

 

Fair, because the citizen must be paid; if we want the young people to stay and return to the land here in our countries they must have dignity and fulfillment, and they must be valued.

 

Good, clean, and fair are three adjectives that farmers must offer to the consumers, whom I would like to call co-producers, in an effort to change our food system.

 

Carlo Petrini

Founder of Slow Food

 

 

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And finally, at this time of Thanksgiving, we give thanks to all of you. You enable us and all our local farmer friends and neighbors to do what we do.

 

So as we sit with our respective loved ones this Thanksgiving and count our blessings, let’s also count up the number of local foods on the holiday table, and do good while eating well!

 

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