FARM NOTES: Overwhelming Green and Peripatetic Pumpkins

As you may recall, we were somewhat desperate for rain last week. The 70% chance we were so hopeful about yielded only a tenth of an inch. But then Sunday night the wind whipped up and brought down a wonderful half inch or so (Henry wasn’t quite sure how much because a moth got into the rain gauge). Then on Tuesday night we got a blessed full inch. The soil is still damp today, and the greens are going crazy.

Henry says to be ready for the overwhelming life force of the greens at the Market this week. There will be over 30 different kinds, including the summer spinaches and chards, as well as a whole huge crop of fall greens—many varieties of Asian greens, as well as turnip and mustard greens, lettuces and arugula, and more. I sat down to a full meal of greens a few days ago – two bunches of yu choi and one of broccoli raab – and every cell of my body felt nourished.

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It’s after 10 p.m. and I’m going to write about Pumpkins tonight because, contrary to the message of the mercury in the thermometer, it’s October. I’m writing and also waiting for Zoe (Henry and Hiroko’s daughter) to send me her Farm Notes – I must say, I enjoy this partnership, and hope you do, too – although if I don’t get her Notes soon, I’ll go ahead and send mine and forward hers later.

 

For our Annual Tour and Potluck last Saturday (thanks to all who came—it was a great day!) Henry set up a big hayrack at the top of the lane, and heaped it up with dozens of varieties of pumpkins and squash for everyone to admire and buy. The butterflies and bees were also attracted by the bright colors and light sweetness oozing out from stems and scratches and fluttered lightly above the weighty pile. It occurred to me then that there may be nothing more beautiful on earth than a hayrack piled high with curvaceous vegetables of every autumnal hue under a brilliant blue sky, a blue that only deepened as my eyes held on, and my soul stood ajar.

 

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FOOD and FARM NOTES: Culinary Pumpkins

This year, Henry is growing a number of Heirloom Pumpkins, as well as a truly unique one that is such a serious heirloom that you will find it nowhere else, unless you are, perhaps, the chief of a central Illinois Indian tribe.

 

The seeds of this precious pumpkin were given to Henry last year by a woman who knows this particular Indian chief. His family and tribe have grown it as long as anyone can remember. Henry has dubbed it “Indian Pie” and you have to at least admire one, if not buy one, this week. Look for a large, flattened, fluted pumpkin that is a delicate beige/orange/tan. It strikes you as almost too beautiful to be real . . . more of a carved and polished objet d’art for a large country French oak table, than a thing to carve and eat on a dish upon that table.

 

But this object is no objet, and eat it you must, for it is a thing of beauty with a practical function . . . which is to feed us, and feed us well. It turns out that the Indian Pie is, arguably, the sweetest of all the pumpkins Henry is growing. So pick one up, enjoy its deep beauty for a week or two, then sacrifice it for the enjoyment and nourishment of all.

 

The other pumpkins Henry has are the Long Pie, New England Pie, Winter Luxury and other standard orange pie pumpkins. They are all attractive and delicious, and you owe it to yourself to try at least one of each before the market ends next month.

 

The Long Pie looks something like a long, fat, orange (sometimes streaked with green) zucchini. This cultivar has a peripatetic history. Once known as the "Long Island Pie Pumpkin", it was first recorded growing on the Isle of St. George in the Azores islands, from seed brought there some time previously from the Americas. From the Azores, it was brought back to the New World by whalers in 1832, to Nantucket from whence it was carried north to Maine.

 

Burpee offered it in 1888 as St. George, and by the 1930s, it was well established in certain areas of the northeast as the pie pumpkin. It was said that a Mainer never heard of a round pumpkin unless they moved away from home. Little by little, though, the Long Pie's fame faded, and by the 1980s it had reached total obscurity (though the Penobscot and Abenaki tribes still regularly grew it).

 

It was "rescued" by LeRoy Souther, a Livermore Falls, Maine, native who had been maintaining it for more than 30 years. Sometime in the late 1980s he brought seeds to cucurbit aficionado John Navazio at his Common Ground Fair squash booth. Navazio took them with him to Garden City Seeds in Montana where he re-introduced them to commerce. And now Henry would like to introduce them to you.

 

New England Pie is the classic bright orange pie pumpkin. The flesh is a little drier than some of the others, and quite stringless, making a nice pie consistency without putting it in a blender or food procesor.

 

Winter Luxury. Amy Goldman, author of The Compleat Squash says that "Winter Luxury Pie is my favorite orange pumpkin...Though it breaks my heart to cut one open.” This pumpkin’s beauty comes from the russeted, finely-netted soft orange-gray skin. Goldman advises baking the pumpkin whole, pierced with a few tiny vent holes, until it slumps after about an hour at 350. You then scoop out the flesh and put it in a blender to make what Goldman calls “the smoothest and most velvety pumpkin pie I've ever had...requiring much less in the way of sugar and eggs than other varieties." Don't expect the color of the flesh to be dark orange, though. It is actually quite light but the flavor and texture is what makes the Winter Luxury Pie Pumpkin so exceptional.

No matter whether it’s a New England, Luxury, Long, or Indian pumpkin, all are excellent sources of vitamin A and potassium. And don’t discard the seeds! They contain a high amount of fiber and phosphorus. Roasted and salted they make a delicious and nutritious snack. Seed recovery is an excellent project for kids, as they love sloshing through the fibers in search of the slippery seeds.

I’ll save pie recipes for closer to Thanksgiving, so you can broaden your pumpkin horizons with some of the recipes below, and also try out some of Teresa’s squash/pumpkin soups under her Herb Notes.

Coconut Pumpkin Soup (Keg Bouad Mak Fak Kham)

From Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A Culinary Journey Through Southeast Asia, by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid (Artisan, 2000)

This versatile silky soup can be part of an Asian or Western meal. For the real thing, search out the large wedges of pumpkin with gray-green skin sold in Southeast Asian groceries and in Caribbean produce markets. Or use any pie pumpkin or winter squash.

3-4 shallots, unpeeled
1-1/2 pounds pumpkin or butternut squash
2 cups canned or fresh coconut milk
2 cups mild pork or chicken broth
1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 Tablespoons Thai fish sauce, or to taste
Generous grindings of black pepper
1/4 cup minced scallion greens (optional)

1. In a heavy skillet, or on a charcoal or gas grill, dry-roast or grill the shallots, turning occasionally until softened and blackened. Peel and then cut the shallots lengthwise in half, and set aside.
2. Peel the pumpkin and clean off any seeds. Cut into small half-inch cubes. You should have four-and-a-half to five cups of cubed pumpkin.
3. Place the coconut milk, chicken broth, pumpkin cubes, shallots, and cilantro leaves in a large pot and bring to a boil. Add the salt and simmer over medium heat until the pumpkin is tender, about ten minutes. Stir in the fish sauce and cook for another two to three minutes. Taste and add a little more fish sauce if you wish.
4. Serve from a large soup bowl or in individual bowls. Grind black pepper generously over each bowl, and, if you wish, garnish with a sprinkling of minced scallion greens. Leftovers freeze very well and are excellent reheated. Makes four to six servings.

Fettucine with Pumpkin, Shiitakes, and Mascarpone
4 cups half-inch pieces seeded peeled fresh sugar pumpkin or butternut squash
1-1/2 Tablespoons olive oil
4-1/2 cups chicken stock or canned low-salt chicken broth
1 cup mascarpone cheese or farmer’s cheese
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 cup butter
12 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, thinly sliced
1 pound fettuccine (try black fettucine for a stunning orange/black presentation)
2/3 cup shelled toasted pumpkin seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Toss the pumpkin with olive oil in a large bowl. Transfer the pumpkin to heavy baking sheet or roasting pan. Bake until the pumpkin is tender and beginning to brown, stirring once, about thirty minutes.
2. Transfer the pumpkin to a food processor. Add two and a half cups of chicken stock. Puree until smooth. Add mascarpone cheese and ground cinnamon. Process to blend. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Melt butter in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté until beginning to brown, about five minutes. Add the remaining chicken stock. Boil until the stock is reduced by half, about eight minutes. Reduce heat to low. Stir in pumpkin mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Cook the fettuccine in a large pot of boiling salted water until barely tender. Drain. Transfer fettuccine to a large serving bowl. Add sauce and toasted pumpkin seeds; toss to coat thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately passing Parmesan cheese separately. Makes six to eight servings.

Prairie Honey Pumpkin Bread
This rich, moist autumn tea bread is wonderful slathered with cream cheese or apple butter.

3-1/2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
3 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
2 cups granulated sugar
3/4 cup honey
1/2 cup water
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup pureed pumpkin
4 eggs, beaten
1 cup chopped pecans (optional)
1/2 cup golden raisins (optional)
1/2 cup dried sour cherries (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Oil three mini-loaf pans or one nine-by-five-inch loaf pan and set aside.
2. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and sugar. Then stir in the honey, water, oil, pumpkin, and eggs until you have a smooth batter. Fold in the optional pecans, raisins, and dried sour cherries if desired.
3. Pour the batter into the prepared pans and bake for fifty to sixty minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean. Cool in the pans. This bread freezes well for up to three months and makes a wonderful holiday gift. Makes three mini-loaves or one nine-by-five-inch loaf.

 

 

Teresa’s Fruit and Herb News

I know….I said last week would be my final market, but…the weather has been so warm--we haven’t even had a hint of autumn these past few weeks-- and we got rain, which really gave the flowers and some of the herbs a second wind.

 

And, with my upbringing, it would seem wasteful, even a sin, to leave all that good food and those beautiful flowers out in the field instead of bringing them up to you. Not only that, but it would be impractical. When you have two daughters in college and bills piling up, you need to take advantage of the weather when it throws you something good. Too often it goes the other way.

 

Flowers, Raspberries, Fresh and Dry Herbs and TEAS!

The Golden Harvest raspberries love the cool nights and warm days that we have been having. Try some alone or mixed with our red raspberries on yogurt or ice cream. It won’t be long before these fresh berries will be only a memory, so enjoy the last couple weeks of summer sweetness.

 

With the two rains this past week, the fresh herbs have a new lease on life. Other than a few types that I am letting rest and build up their strength for the long winter ahead, there will be lots of fresh green herbs, especially mint, cilantro, dill, sage, oregano, and basil. Yes, basil in October! Take advantage of our late fall, and of that heat-loving basil, and make your favorite recipe. Here are a few of my own favorites:

 

My Two Favorite Cilantro Recipes

 

Shrimp with Cilantro-Mint Pesto

(You can do this with chicken or fish too, or go vegetarian with pasta or potatoes. You can also bake it in the oven instead of on the grill.)

1 1/3 c. packed fresh cilantro leaves

3/4 c. packed fresh mint leaves

1/2 c. grated Parmesan cheese

4 cloves garlic, peeled

4 T. fresh lime or lemon juice

1 jalapeno, stemmed and seeded

3/4 c. olive oil

4 pounds (21-25) shrimp, shelled

Combine all ingredients except shrimp in a food processor; process until smooth. Toss shrimp with pesto in a shallow, non-reactive pan to coat. Cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.

When ready to cook, prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct grilling over high heat. Grill shrimp 2 to 3 minutes per side; the shrimp will be firm and white. Serve immediately. Serves 8 as a main dish, or 12 as an appetizer.

 

Curried Squash Bisque with Cilantro

( I have also made this with cinnamon basil, which is delicious!)

2 pounds butternut or similar type squash, baked and mashed

1 medium onion, chopped

1 Tablespoon olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 Tablespoons grated fresh ginger

2 cups cubed cooked chicken

1-14 ounce can chicken broth

1-13 ounce can unsweetened coconut milk (I use about half that amount)

1/4 cup water

2 to 3 teaspoons curry powder

salt to taste

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 c. chopped fresh cilantro (or cinnamon basil)

1/4 c. chopped cashews

In a large saucepan cook onion in hot oil for 3 to 4 minutes or until tender. Add garlic and ginger and cook and stir one minute more. Stir in the mashed squash, chicken, broth, coconut milk, water, curry powder, slat, and pepper. Cook over medium heat until heated through, stirring occasionally.

To serve, spoon into bowls and top with cilantro or basil and the cashews. Makes 5 or 6 servings.

 

My Two Favorite Sage Recipes

 

Roasted Root Vegetables

(Use any other roots you want too, including rutabaga, parsnips, beets etc.)

2 T. unsalted butter

1 T. olive oil

6 medium carrots, cut in uniform pieces

6 medium potatoes, cut in uniform pieces

6 small onions, halved

1 bunch of sage

1 bunch of rosemary

1 bunch of thyme

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Put melted butter and oil in a large roasting pan and add the cut up vegetables. Stir to coat the vegetables; then spread them in a single layer. Roast for 8 minutes. Meanwhile chop the herbs. After the 8 minutes, add the herbs and then use a spatula to rotate and turn the vegetables, making sure to coat the herbs with the oil and butter. Continue roasting for 8-10 minutes more, or until done.

 

Butternut Squash Soup with Parmesan and Fried Sage Leaves

Fried sage leaves make a crispy garnish. Try them also crumbled on mashed potatoes and sautéed vegetables.

3 tablespoons butter
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 2 3/4-pound butternut squash, halved, peeled, seeded, chopped (about 5 cups) or about

4 cups mashed baked squash

5 cups canned low-salt chicken broth
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
24 fresh sage leaves

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion; cover and cook until soft, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes. Add chopped sage; stir 1 minute. Add squash and broth. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until squash is tender, about 25 minutes. Cool slightly. Add mashed squash, or if using cubed squash, puree soup in batches in blender until smooth. Return soup to pot. Mix in cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cool slightly, then cover and refrigerate.)

Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add sage leaves and sauté until brown and toasted, about 2 minutes. Bring soup to simmer. Ladle into bowls. Garnish with fried sage leaves.

Dry Herbs and Teas

I have been working for the last two days straight making teas, and managed to get them all replenished except the Country Anise (which I will have more of at the November 3^rd market. If you missed last week and were worried you wouldn’t be able to stock up for winter, here is your chance.

 

Check last week’s email for a list of varieties of teas and dry cooking herbs and then check your cupboards to see what you need.

See you Saturday!

 

 

Some keep the Sabbath going to Church I keep it staying at Home With a Bobolink for a Chorister And an Orchard for a Dome.