Date: July 16th 2010

It’s been many years since I went to a fair, but today I spent the day at the Iroquois County Fair with sister Jill and her family, reveling in phrases you hear nowhere else, such as “power-house doe” (for a female goat who looks capable of having many kids easily) and “excess conditioning” (meaning too fat). 
 
We left before the evening’s entertainment, a Demolition Derby, which my youngest niece referred to as a Dalmation Derby—the latter something I would have been tempted to stay for. Back home at Jill and Will’s place we had corn and cucumbers fresh from the garden, and big thick hamburgers made from our Dad’s grassfed beef spiked with fresh oregano from Jill’s garden. Then we watched the sinking sun, a mass of incandescent gas (in the words of the science songs of our childhood), turn its massive horizontal searchlight on the new tassels at the tops of each corn plant, seeming to set the fields ablaze.  
 
Earlier in the day, I spoke with Henry briefly. He sounded hot and tired, although he didn’t complain. He said there will be a lot more of the high summer vegetables at the market on Saturday, including many more tomatoes and squashes, as well as eggplants, peppers, beans, and okra. There will be very few, if any, heads of lettuce again this week, because of the constant rains in June that prevented him from doing his usual successive plantings of lettuce. But don’t worry, the amazing wall of lettuce will return sooner or later. In the meantime, try a cabbage salad – since this will be the last week for the crisp, sweet cabbages. Pick up a few, as  they will keep well in your refrigerator for weeks.
 
Food Notes: True Scallions (Negi), and Specialty Basils (Persian, Thai, Lemon, Opal)
 
Henry’s Japanese “negi” – a type of true scallion – are especially nice this year. Don’t be put off by their large size – they are tender and sweet, and milder than the pencil-thin green onions you get in the store.  At first glance, many people mistake the scallions for leeks because of their size. But at second glance you’ll see that they have the round, hollow leaf like an onion, not the flat leaf of a leek.  Unlike green onions, which are simply young bulb onions, true scallions never form a bulb. They just grow in diameter and length, keeping their straight sides, and their less pungent taste.  
 
Raw, thinly sliced scallions lend a spark of flavor to green salads, potato salads, and relish plates. Cooking renders the scallions sweet and mild. They are good sautéed with vegetables or added to soups. And they are a quick and easy addition to any outdoor grilling you are doing. Simply brush them with oil and put on the grill, turning frequently, until lightly charred. Serve alongside just about anything.
 
SCALLION TEMPURA
In a bowl, whisk together 1 1/4 cups water and 1 cup flour until smooth. Season with salt and, if desired, freshly ground black pepper. Cut 4 trimmed scallions into 2-inch lengths.
In a skillet over medium heat, heat about 1/2 inch of oil until hot but not smoking. Dip the scallion into the batter, allowing any excess to drip off, and fry in the hot oil, turning as necessary, until crisp and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and salt generously.
 
 Teriyaki Chicken with Negi

  • 1 1/2 lb chicken thighs

  • 1 negi (scallions)

  • 1/2 cup teriyaki sauce

  • 2 tbsp sake

  • 2 tbsp corn starch

  • 2 tbsp water

Wash and cut negi  or leek into small pieces. Cut chicken thighs into small chunks. Heat some oil in a frying pan. Fry chicken on medium heat for a couple of minutes. Turn the chicken over and add negi to the pan. Pour sake over the ingredients. Cover the frying pan with a lid and cook for 5 minutes on low heat. Pour teriyaki sauce over the chicken and negi and bring to boil. Add mixture of cornstarch and water in the pan to thicken the sauce. Stir quickly and turn off the heat.
 
 
Scallion Patties

4 scallions, shredded finely

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 pinch salt

2 tablespoons sesame oil

  Dipping Sauce

  • 1 cup water

  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar

  • 1 tablespoon sugar

  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce

  • 1 tablespoon cornstarch, mixed with

  • 1 tablespoon water

  1.  Stir-fry the scallions in the 1 tablespoon oil until softened.  Cool.

  2.  Meanwhile place the first 4 sauce ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the cornstarch mix to this, and stir until it thickens. Set aside.

  3.  Place the scallion, eggs and pinch of salt in a bowl and mix. Heat half the sesame oil in a large frypan over medium high heat.  Using half the mix, form 4 patties in the pan. Cook until golden, turn over cook until golden and cooked through.  Keep these warm whilst you repeat with the remaining sesame oil and scallion/egg mix.  Divide between 4 plates, and serve with the sauce spooned over.

 
Specialty Basils: Opal, Thai, Persian, Lemon
Henry says that this may be one of the last weeks for significant amounts of his specialty basils, so be sure and give one or more of them a try.   You can turn a dish from ordinary to exotic, just by sprinking one of these basils over it – whether it is grilled eggplant, a pasta, or a herbed vinaigrette for a tomato, potato, or green bean salad.  
Each of the basils have a complex mix of aromas and tastes, but in general, I’d say the Opal and Thai have warm notes of cinnamon and clove, while the Persian is a little lemony and a little anise-y, and the lemon is very, very lemony.You can make pestos with any of them in the same way you do for the Italian basil, and you can freeze them for later use.
 
Bruschetta with Zucchini Purée and Opal or Lemon Basil
This bruschetta variation features a savory zucchini purée, plus beautiful opal basil. Toast the bread on an outdoor grill or under the broiler. Recipe by Arthur Boehm, adapted from Cucina Rustica, by Viana La Place and Evan Kleiman.

  • 1/4 cup, extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for the bread

  • 1/2 small onion, chopped (or use one scallion)

  • 2 medium zucchini, washed, ends trimmed and coarsely sliced

  • 3 large garlic cloves, 2 of them minced

  • 2 tablespoons, chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

  • 10 Opal or Lemon basil leaves, torn into pieces

  • 6 thick slices, rustic bread

  • Drops of fresh lemon juice 

1. In a medium skillet, heat the 1/4 cup of oil over medium heat. Add the onion, and sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes, stirring as needed. Add zucchini, minced garlic and parsley. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan and cook, stirring frequently, until zucchini falls apart completely, about 15 minutes. As the zucchini softens, mash it with the back of the spoon. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the stove, mix in basil and reserve.
2. Grill or toast the bread under the broiler. Using the heel of your hand, lightly crush the remaining garlic clove. Rub one side of each bread slice with garlic, and drizzle with olive oil. Spread the zucchini purée on the bread, sprinkle with lemon juice and serve.
 
Zephyr Zucchini with Opal Basil, Pine Nuts, and Parmigiano-Reggiano
From the Deborah Madison collection
 
1
lb. or more Zephyr or other zucchini, each 6 to 8 inches long
Salt and pepper to taste
¼
cup pine nuts
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste
10
 large opal basil leaves, torn into pieces
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
 

  1. Slice the squash lengthwise in half, then steam or simmer in salted water until tender.

  2. Meanwhile, toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium heat until golden.

  3. When the squash is done, arrange it on a platter, cut side facing up. Drizzle olive oil over it and season with salt and pepper. Grate a veil of cheese over the squash, add the pine nuts and basil, and serve.

 
Basil Lemonade
4 cups of water

1/2 cup of fresh-squeezed lemon juice

1/2 cup of any variety of basil

6 tablespoons of sugar

4 cups of ice

A few extra sprigs of opal basil for garnish
 
Combine water and juice in a jug. In a mortar and pestle, mash basil with sugar until you see a paste form. Strain paste through a sieve into jug of juice and water, and discard the leaves. Serve in chilled glasses with ice and toss in a purple basil sprig.
 
Teresa’s Fruit and Herb News
 
Season of Sweetness and Hope
 
“Even if I knew that tomorrow the world would go to pieces, I would still plant my apple tree.” -- Martin Luther
 
I think Martin Luther was probably making a statement about faith, but there is definitely something about a tree full of apples that helps dispel despair. It’s a sign of plenty, of sweetness, and of hope. We are having a very nice and very EARLY (a full 2 weeks earlier than usual!) beginning to apple season, that season of sweetness and hope, with 4 kinds of apples this week.
 
Pristine - This is always our first apple of the season and it is one of my favorites. It is sweet with just the right amount of zing, but the texture is what really makes it stand out. Some people compare it to Honeycrisp because it has that amazing juicy crunch, but without the dense flesh of some crunchy apples. Best for eating fresh, but I’ve also made applesauce and baked with them. Come try a sample and see for yourself!
 
Williams’ Pride - These are another deliciously crunchy apple, but with a little more tartness, and complex red wine overtones. The skin is dark burgundy red, and sometimes colors the flesh under the skin a lovely pink. This variety is just starting, so we don’t have too many this week. They are great for eating, and also make a gorgeous red colored applesauce.
 
Nutting Bumpus - This apple was introduced by James Nutting (1839-1893). Some say that he named the apple after the James Fennimore Cooper hero, Natty Bumpo, but no one really knows. Nutting Bumpus has red stripes on a yellow background and is juicy with a mild sub-acid flavor. Great for fresh eating or cooking. 
 
Chehalis -  Chehalis is a favorite of the Japanese beetles, and for good reason. Its green skin is very tender and the white flesh beneath is very juicy and sweet. It is considered a larger, “improved” golden delicious. It is very early this year and we are picking a few this week to make sure the beetles don’t get all of them. 
 
Peaches Beginning Too!
 
“Do I dare to eat a peach?”   T.S.Eliot
 
If apples symbolize plenty, sweetness, and hope, then peaches represent pure frivolity and excess! They often come at the hottest part of the summer and biting into a warm peach out in the field has more than a little feeling of sinful over-indulgence and eroticism. 
 
We are doing our best to keep the beetles from devouring all of our peaches, but every day we have to throw a dozen or so beetle-damaged peaches over the fence to the goats. It’s funny to watch the goats eat them because they make loud smacking and crunching noises ending with them spitting out the pit! We will have the beginning of the peach crop at the market this week, so come early if you want to be sure to get some. 
 
Blueberries
The blueberries are still holding their own and we will have about a tray or so of each of the three varieties. Come early if you want to taste Chandler though, because they go quickly.
 
2 New Teas This Week!
Country Anise-I’ve had this tea every year for several years now. It is mainly anise hyssop leaves with a little bit of sweet red clover. It makes a naturally sweet tea that is good hot or iced. It tastes great anytime, but is especially good for sore throats and coughs.
Blue Shiso-I introduced this tea two summers ago and then last year had a germination failure with my shiso, so I wasn’t able to make any, to the disappointment of many customers. I make this tea with Britton shiso, a beautiful herb with large heart shaped leaves that are dark grren on top and majenta on the underside. I also put in lemon grass, lemon verbena, and a little bit of ginger. When you add the hot water it turns a gorgeous blue-green, thus the name. It has a fruity taste with a hint of root beer!
 
Herb of the Week: WINTER SAVORY
While most Americans are unfamiliar with savory (either summer or winter), it was well known in the past and has a most colorful history. The ancient Egyptians used it as an aphrodisiac and the Romans picked up on that connection and used it as an ingredient in love potions. The Romans then brought savory with them to England, where the English mixed it with beeswax and made a back massage potion for “unromantic” women. The French mixed it with wine as a love potion for either sex.   The English then brought the herb to America where all association with romance ended abruptly when it was used in tea to cure diarrhea! The sad part is that that last application is the one that holds water today. 
 
Winter savory is a robustly flavored herb that has a taste somewhere between thyme, oregano, and sage. Beans are the classic partner for savory-any kind of beans-from tender green beans to dry beans of all sorts. It is also good with potatoes and meats such as roasts and stews. The peppery flavor is also wonderful in homemade vinegar and oil dressings for salads and marinades for chicken. 
 
Green Beans with Savory and Tomatoes from The Good Herb by Judith Benn Hurley
1 pound green beans, topped and tailed
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, mashed through a press
2 medium Italian plum tomatoes, chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh savory
            Steam the beans over boiling water, covered, until bright green and just tender, about 7 minutes.
            Meanwhile, heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Pour in the oil. Add the garlic and tomatoes and sauté until fragrant and saucy, about 5 minutes.
            Add the beans and savory to the tomatoes, tossing well. Serve as a side dish, with polenta or an herb and cheese omelet. The beans are also tasty when slightly chilled and served as a side to risotto, with a glass of Chianti.
 
Savory Potato Gratin from the Herbal Kitchen by Jerry Traunfeld
2 pounds Yukon Gold or russet potatoes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
1/4 cup chopped winter savory
1 cup (3 ounces) shredded Gruyere
3/4 cup whole milk
            Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Peel and rinse the potatoes and slice them about 1/16 inch thick, as if for potato chips. It’s easiest to do this on a mandoline, but if you don’t have one, use the slicing blade of a food processor. It’s possible to cut them thinly and evenly with a chef’s knife, but quite challenging.
            Smear the butter on the bottom and sides of a 10 inch round shallow baking dish or glass pie plate. Arrange about one third of the potato slices in concentric circles over the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle the 1/2 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons of the shallots, one third of the savory, and one third of the cheese. Repeat the process with another third of the potatoes, and the same toppings, then finish with a layer of the potatoes and sprinkle with the remaining teaspoon salt, the savory, and cheese. Pour the milk over the top.
            Bake the gratin for 40-45 minutes, or until deeply browned all over. Serve in wedges from the baking dish, or let the gratin cool slightly and slide it onto a platter.   
 
See you at the Evanston Market on Saturday!
 

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