New Currants, Teas, Soaps; Lots of Lettuces and Chicories, No Nincompoops

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Date: June 11th 2010

You don’t get weather much better than what we’ve had the past few days, and I hope you’ve taken a few moments to glance up into the infinite blue sky and the white clouds skating across it, or to relax your eyes on the dancing green of trees and grass, or perhaps to repeat a few phrases from the quietly ecstatic e.e. cummings poem:

i thank You God for most this amazing
day:for the leaping greenly spirits of trees
and a blue true dream of sky;and for everything
which is natural which is infinite which is yes

The experiment with last week’s abbreviated Food & Farm Notes (with links to the Food & Farm Notes blog), had an equal number of people loving it and hating it -- some quite seriously and vehemently. So I am going to keep the former format (the old-fashioned letter form), while gradually making my way into the brave new world of blogs and feeds and i-Phones.

For the moment, your choices are to click over to the blog right now for some photos and short bits that I'll get up there sometime on Friday-- I hope! -- probably on garlic scapes (Henry’s), red currants (Teresa’s), and apples and goats (Jill’s and Halley’s) . . . or don’t click, and just read on for the full experience.

[For those of you new to these Notes and wondering who the heck Henry, Teresa, Jill and Halley are . . . Halley is Jill’s oldest daughter, and Jill, Teresa, Henry and me (Terra) are four Illinois farm siblings (2 more siblings are out west). I write the Food & Farm Notes for Henry, and often his daughter Zoe contributes; Teresa writes her Fruit & Herb Notes, and Halley, who just graduated from 8^th grade, is writing intermittent Notes from her family’s Red Barn Farm—all of which are in this weekly email . . . so Read On!]

Food & Farm Notes from Henry’s Farm

· At the market this week:

o NEW: Baby Fennel, Cabbage (Yum!), Basil (Lots!), Knob Onions (red, white, and yellow), purple and multi-colored carrots, and other new items that Henry can’t remember right now

o Japanese Hand Weeding Tools (think Father’s Day) – just $25

o The Seasons on Henry’s Farm and Solstices and Equinoxes – look for Terra at the book table from 5 a.m. to 9:30 a.m. I’ll leave some signed books there after that, which you can buy from my sister Jill or her girls.

Farm Notes: We were expecting rain early in the week, but only got about half an inch, which was fine as we don’t need rain right now, and Henry could use a dry week or so to liberate the seedlings from all the weeds. When the soil is dry, he and the family and apprentices break out all the implements you can use in dry soil: tractor, rototiller, and hoes of all descriptions. During or after a rain, the only weeding implements you can use are your hands, which are marvelous implements, but not nearly as efficient as steel in the various clever ways we have put it together to get rid of weeds. Speaking of which . . . if you have had your eye on one of those Japanese weeding tools, in effect hand-hoes, that Henry brings to market now and then, this is the week to get one over at the book table. They are beautiful and useful . . . and would make a great gift for yo urself or a gardener in your life, or for Father’s Day, which is coming up in just over a week.

Food Notes – Hip Hip Hooray for Chic-Chic-Chic-o-ries! (and Lettuces and Scapes)

This week, Henry will have lots of beautiful greens from the chicory family: Radicchio (Treviso, Verona, and Italico di Rosso) (all Cichorium intybus) -- and Escarole and Endive (Cichorium endivia).

Curly endive, or frisée (var crispum) has narrow, green, curly outer leaves. It is sometimes called chicory in the U.S. and is called chicorée frisée in French.

Escarole, or broad-leaved endive (var latifolia) has broad, pale green leaves and is less bitter than the other varieties. Varieties include broad-leaved endive, Bavarian endive, Batavian endive, grumolo, scarola, and scarole. (The cream colored Belgian endive is grown underground or indoors in the absence of sunlight to prevent the leaves from turning green and opening up. We don’t have time for such silliness, so our endive is open and a lovely shade of green.)
· Italico di Rosso Radicchio is a variety Henry is trying for the first time this year. It is stemmy and upright, with long stalks, red and green, that open out to a spoon leaf at the end.

The chicory plant is one of the earliest cited in recorded literature. Horace wrote: "Me pascunt olivae, me cichorea, me malvae" ("As for me, olives, endives, and mallows provide sustenance").

And as for me, they provide deep sustenance . . . something about the bitter edge speaks of nutrients that my body knows it needs. Indeed the chicories are rich in many vitamins and minerals, especially in folate and vitamins A and K. The bitter characteristic is appreciated in many cuisines, especially in Italy (Liguria and Puglia), Greece, and Turkey because it adds depth to the overall flavor of a salad or a dish.

But if you want to harness the bite, try cooking the greens, and add salt, fat, and spice – chiles or bacon or sausage or cheese all go well with chicories. Or try these techniques:

Adding sweetness, such as sugar or honey, during cooking.
Counterbalancing the bitterness by sautéing greens in oil with lots of garlic and/or onions.
Long, slow braising, especially with meats, to really mellow the chicories.
Grilling or roasting, and then slathering with olive oil, balsamic, and/or cheese

Before we get to the recipes, Henry wants me to assure all of you who were at the market last week that none of you are nincompoops—because last week he brought up 40 crates of lettuce, and you bought the complete contents of 39 of them. To thank you for your amazing feat, and challenge you to greater heights, he is bringing up even more lettuce up this week, and will again have it on sale – 2 big beautiful heads – your choice from over 40 varieties – for only $5!

This makes me think we need a new subsection to the Food & Farm Notes:

Word Notes: Nincompoop

Most dictionaries play is safe and list it as “origin unknown.” The first edition of the Oxford English Dictionary concluded that the word was simply a fanciful formation. But the most recent OED links the word, with some caution, to Nicodemus, the Pharisee who questioned Jesus. This derivation gets support in the French word nicodème, meaning a simpleton or fool. Or at least the first part of the word does . . . but what about that poop? Some point to the Dutch phrase nicht om poep, meaning “the female relative of a fool. ” And there was once an English verb poop, which indeed meant to fool or cheat, and it did come from Dutch poep (which in the original Dutch meant a shit or a fart). Dr. Johnson ignored all of the above in his Dictionary, writing that nincompoop was from Latin non compos, as in the medical and legal phrase non compos mentis. Given that there's no consensus, here’s my definition:

Nincompoop: a silly-sounding word for a silly sort of person--the sort that doesn’t buy at least 2 heads of lettuce and a couple of chicories this week.

Sauteed Escarole

Anchovy and red pepper flakes balance the bitterness of the escarole.

4 lb escarole (about 4 heads), cored and coarsely chopped
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil plus additional for drizzling
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
1 (2-oz) can anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained, patted dry, and chopped

Wash escarole well. Cook in a 7- to 8-quart heavy pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 10 minutes, then drain in a colander.

Heat oil in same pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté garlic and red pepper flakes, stirring, until garlic is golden, about 1 minute. Add anchovies, then reduce heat to moderate and cook, stirring, until dissolved, about 1 minute. Add escarole, stirring to coat with oil, then increase heat to moderately high and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until escarole is tender and most of liquid is evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes. Season lightly with salt. Spoon onto a platter and drizzle with oil to taste.

Grilled Radicchio with Scamorza Cheese

4 (9-inch) heads Treviso radicchio
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup coarsely grated smoked Scamorza cheese or smoked mozzarella (3 oz)
2 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Prepare grill. Remove any loose outer leaves from radicchio and trim bases, leaving heads intact. Quarter each head lengthwise. Brush radicchio lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill on a rack over moderately hot coals (coals are ready when you can hold your hand 5 inches above rack 3 to 4 seconds), covered, turning every 10 minutes, until outer leaves are browned and hearts are tender, 25 to 30 minutes total. Sprinkle cheese over cut sides of radicchio and grill, uncovered, until cheese begins to melt, about 2 minutes. Transfer radicchio to a platter and drizzle with vinegar.

Roasted Balsamic Radicchio

2 large heads of radicchio (about 1 pound total), halved through core end, each half cut into 3 wedges with some core still attached
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

Balsamic vinegar (for drizzling)

Preheat oven to 450°F. Rinse radicchio wedges in cold water; gently shake off excess water (do not dry completely). Place radicchio in large bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with thyme, salt, and pepper; toss to coat.

Arrange radicchio wedges, 1 cut side up, on rimmed baking sheet. Roast until wilted, about 12 minutes. Turn over and roast until tender, about 8 minutes longer. Arrange radicchio on platter, drizzle with balsamic vinegar, and serve.

Radicchio, Carrot, Cabbage Slaw

2 small heads radicchio, cut in half, then sliced thinly
1 small head cabbage, quartered and thinly sliced
2/3 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sugar
3/4 cup roughly grated carrots
1/3 cup white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper

In a large mixing bowl, toss all the ingredients together.

Endive and Chicory Salad with Grainy Mustard Vinaigrette

1/2 garlic clove
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon coarse-grain mustard
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 head endive, torn into small pieces
1 head escarole, torn into small pieces

Mince garlic with a large heavy knife, then mash to a paste with salt using flat side of knife. Whisk together garlic paste, mustard, vinegar, and pepper, then add oil in a slow stream, whisking until emulsified. Just before serving, toss greens with vinaigrette.

And finally (in Henry’s part of these Notes), a note about last week’s bagged spinach and mesclun . . .

We’re not sure why, but there seemed to be something about the bags we used last week that may have caused the greens to go bad much faster than usual . . . Henry has a number of theories, but he is going back to the regular bags this week, and assumes that will fix things. But if you were unable to enjoy your greens last week because of this issue, let us know and we’ll make it right. Thanks.

Teresa’s Fruit and Herb News

First of the Red Currants and Raspberries, AND we still have Strawberries!

We had two frosts during blossom season this spring and they did more damage than I first thought, so I’m not at all sure how many strawberries we will have this week. If you are in dire need, come early! The raspberries are just starting (yes, they are early this year) so there won’t be many of those either . . . in case you need another reason to come early.

In my opinion, red currants are the most beautiful of all the fruits that I grow. (If you have a Land Connection calendar, you’ve been enjoying their beauty since June 1.) They glow ruby red as if lit from within. In the shade of the branches, the long strigs sway in and out of view, half hidden by the dark green, maple-shaped leaves.

Red currants are tart, so they are perfect for sweetened desserts or in combination with sweeter fruits such as raspberries and strawberries. They are very high in vitamin C--one source says 30 times higher than oranges by weight! If you don’t have time to make one of the desserts below, just add currants to a smoothie or to your favorite muffin or scone recipe. Some people, like my daughter, Marina, even like them plain. Try it, maybe you will too!

In most of Europe, variations on Red Currant Tarts are as ubiquitous as apple pie is here in the States.

Red Currant Tart

Crust:

2 cups flour

1/2 cup cold butter

1/2 cup sieved powdered sugar

1 egg yolk

a pinch of salt

filling/topping:

1 pound red currants

2 eggs

4-5 tbsp brown sugar

1/2 cup heavy cream

Crust: Sieve the powdered sugar, mix all ingredients, and knead together. The dough will not want to stick together, but keep working it until it does. Form a ball, cover it, and let it rest in the fridge for about half an hour. Then roll it out about half a centimeter thick (dust board with flour as needed) and press into ~5 inch buttered flan tins or Crème brûlée forms. Repeatedly poke a few holes across the bottom, line with parchment paper and add pie weights (I used rice, dry beans work, too) and prebake them in the oven at about 175°C (350°F) for about 10 minutes. Take the crusts out, remove the baking weights and let them cool down.

Filling: Remove red currants from the stems, wash them and pat dry with a kitchen towel. Arrange berries on the dough. Combine eggs with cream and sugar, beat until you have a homogeneous mixture and pour over the currants (about two thirds the height of the redcurrants, because the mixture will rise a bit).

Bake at 180°C (355°F) in the oven for 20 minutes or until lightly browned, remove and let chill. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired. Best eaten still a little warm or on the next day…

A couple of years ago, one very kind and generous customer bought raspberries and red currants from me and the next week he presented me with ice cream made from those berries! It was heavenly! Try this granita using the same combination.

Red currant and raspberry granita

Servings: Makes about 1 pint granita

Adapted from "Is There a Nutmeg in the House?" by Elizabeth David.

1/4 pound red currants, about 1 scant cup

1/2 pound raspberries, about 2 cups

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup sugar

1. In a blender, puree the currants with the raspberries. Press them through a stainless steel or nylon sieve, or put through a food mill. Put them in a medium bowl, and add the lemon juice.

2. In a medium saucepan, bring one-half cup of water and the sugar to a boil. Boil until the mixture is a light syrup consistency, 4 minutes (for a more dense sorbet, boil until the syrup is thick, 7 minutes). Cool for a few minutes.

3. Stir the currant and raspberry mixture into the sugar syrup. Place the granita in a large glass baking dish, cover loosely with foil and allow to freeze, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

4. Ten minutes before serving, transfer the granita to the refrigerator to soften. Serve.

Herb of the Week: OREGANO

Oregano is one of those herbs that has a very different taste when it is fresh compared to when it is dry. The fresh herb is surprisingly peppery and is wonderful in salad dressing or added to a simple tomato salad. It is also great in meat dishes, breads, and of course, in pasta sauces.

Lemon Oregano Chicken

1 chicken, cut up, skin on

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh oregano

6-8 cloves garlic, chopped

3 lemons

3-4 large potatoes, cut into 1-2 inch pieces

Olive oil

Put chicken and potato pieces in a large glass baking dish. Add oregano, garlic, and the juice of 2 lemons. Slice up the third lemon and add the pieces. Drizzle enough olive oil over the top to lightly coat everything. Mix so that everything is coated with the lemon juice and the oil. Bake at 375 degrees for about 1 hour or until the chicken is done.

Easy Tomato Oregano Salad

Peel, seed, and chop a large ripe tomato. Take a block of feta cheese and crumble a little onto the tomato. Add one or two finely minced cloves of garlic. Add a drizzle of olive oil, cracked black pepper and freshly chopped oregano. Coarsely mash. Let sit 10 minutes to let flavors meld, then eat with some nice Italian bread.

Herb Teas are finally Here!!

We have had a few rainy days in the past couple of weeks, which means the jobs like weeding, planting, and mulching, get put on hold and my interns and I get to sit around the table and make tea. I mix up the various herbs and put the mixtures in bowls, then the interns spoon the mixtures into the individual little tea bags. I iron each little teabag shut, stick the labels on the plastic bags, and then package the tea bags inside the plastic bags. We will have Chamomile (both bulk and in tea bags), Sunny Lemon, Lemon Medley, Mint, and Peter Rabbit’s Tea. More varieties coming as the season progresses!

We are trying to reduce packaging to cut down on the amount of plastic that we contribute to the environment. Since most of our customers would buy two bags anyway, we have doubled the number of teabags per bag. Now you will be getting 8 teabags in a bag instead of 4. Prices remain the same per teabag (50 cents/teabag when you buy one bag of 8, 37.5 cents/teabag when you buy two bags of 8).

The Last Week for Plant Starts! Best prices of the season!

If you have a sunny porch, deck, or yard, it’s not too late, but it soon will be! This is the last week I’ll be bringing up plants. For those of you with no yard, you are in luck because I still have a lot of container-suitable tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and herbs for you to choose from. Growing in containers is not hard and it is so satisfying to pick and eat your own veggies! Ask us and we will help you find the variety right for you and give you advice on growing them.

I also have several heirloom and hybrid tomatoes left including several types of plum and paste tomatoes, a few hot and sweet peppers, and lots of Italian eggplants. Oh, and herbs including a few basils, lemon thyme, tarragon, lavender, and several others.

Farm and Goat-Milk Soap NOTES from RED BARN FARM

By Halley Cummings

On our small island amid the rolling waves of corn and soybeans, everything is gearing up for summer. As the days grow longer, so does the list of chores. This week, preparing for the big apple harvest later this summer (the first apple varieties, Pristine and William's Pride, will be ripe by the end of July) involved countless hours mowing the waist-high grass and using it to mulch around the base of each tree. We have also been applying Kaolin powder, a floury mixture made of clay that repels pests. (Terra will post some pictures on the Food & Farm blog.)

As for the goats, the kids born in early spring are increasingly playful, hopping on and off the old wire spools stacked in the pasture in a dance of perpetual joy. A little over two weeks ago, Clara Belle had her kids--one boy and two girls, Elsa and Espresso. Espresso had some trouble learning to nurse so we put her and her mother on the milking stand so we could help her. She successfully learned how to nurse, but now she refuses to drink anywhere but on the milking stand! (To meet some of our other goats and learn about their personalities, visit our website. You can also order soap there and we'll send it to you or as a gift to a friend.)

We milk three goats every day and get about one gallon of milk. We could get more, but the kids still like to drink a little and a gallon is enough for us to drink and to make cheese and soap.

Look for these soaps on Saturday, as well as several seasonal gift bags, perfect for late spring and summer birthday gifts . . . and Father’s Day, too – Silk and Milk might be the perfect one (in addition to, or instead of, a tie)!

Eggs-tra Cleansing (with eggshells!)
Sour Cream
Silk and Milk Soap (for Dad’s Day!)
Rosemary Mist
Luxurious Lavender (aromatherapy!)
Rosehip
Milk-and-Honey Facial
Café Au Lait
Strawberry Scrub
Honey Oatmeal
Yogurt Parfait
Snow's Simple Soap

And finally (from Terra), Halley has recently begun creating beautiful websites . . . see the one for Red Barn Farm here, and one for Teresa’s Aronia here. And of course there's Henry's site here and the Henry's Farm Facebook page here.

You will see all of us, plus a couple of Halley’s sisters, up at the Evanston market this Saturday, and we look forward to seeing you!

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Food and Farm Notes: A weekly peek at what's happening on Henry's Farm and what's coming to market, and what to do with it (with a side helping of poetry, science, philosophy, and what have you) For more information: http://www.terrabrockman.com/Henrys_Farm/welcometohenry%27s.html