Date: May 28th 2010

Lena Horne must have been busy giving encore performances of her sultry “Stormy Weather” earlier this week -- to the accompaniment of real crashing thunder and blinding lightning.  On Monday night, I walked up the lane lit by continual flashes from the southwest that got closer and closer. As I walked back, I saw the cats lounging along the edge of the lane, enjoying the light show and the suddenly cooler air. Reaction to thunderstorms, I thought, is another difference between sensitive dogs and cool cats. But as soon as the first fat drops started falling, they retreated indoors and we all went to sleep to rhythmic waves of rain blowing against the house.  Around 4 a.m. a new storm had come through and hovered over us while the light slashed the sky and slammed it back together righ t above our heads as the house shook and more rain fell.  
A few hours later, when I went over to the fields to help Henry, Hiroko, Matt, Andy, and Charlie with the first CSA harvest, I was surprised to see that the ground there was almost dry. Later I talked to Dad about the difference between the amount of rain that fell at my place and on Henry’s fields less than a mile away, which led Dad to quote his Dad: “It’s gotta stop somewhere.” He then told the story of his Dad going out to work the back 40, and returning home soon after.   Grandma heard the tractor and yelled out, “What are you doing back so soon?” and Grandpa said, “Can’t you see? I’m soaking wet!” Just another example of a summer cloudburst that “stopped somewhere” between the field and the house less than a quarter mi le away.
 
Since some of you, dear readers, don’t get all the way down to our sister Teresa’s Fruit and Herb Notes found at the end of this letter, I’m going to put her Notes first this time and save Henry’s for the end. 
But here’s a sneak preview of what you’ll see at Henry’s stand: lots more lettuce, plus chois, plus more roots -- carrots, kohlrabi (actually an enlarged stem), and probably Japanese turnips. And along with all those old favorites, is a new one: a rustic Italian green called sculpit or stridolo that has its very own festival in the town of Galeata in Emilia-Romagna. . . read more below.
 
Teresa’s Fruit and Herb News
Back from Yale, and Strawberries are Here!!!
As many of you know, we went to Yale last weekend for my eldest daughter’s graduation. It was an exhilarating weekend, filled to the brim with obscure Yale traditions, exciting celebrity appearances, and fabulous refreshments—fried ravioli, coconut chicken, raspberry-brie tarts…but there was one thing that was not fabulous at all: the strawberry shortcake.
 
No offense to the hardworking Yale cafeteria workers, but that shortcake was so far from delicious it must’ve had a passport. A proper shortcake biscuit is delightfully flaky and not so sweet as to overwhelm the berries; this one was doughy and saccharine and stuck in your throat. The strawberries were white inside and utterly flavorless. And what madness was this? No juice to soak into the biscuit and mix with the melting ice cream?! Pure blasphemy. 
 
To avoid creating the shortcake version of an Invasion of the Body Snatchers pod-person, I’ll provide you with my mother’s strawberry shortcake recipe below.  
 
But first, the back-story on these berries, which have had a challenging spring: In April when we removed their winter mulch blanket, they were shocked with 85 degree heat and a mini-drought. Between then and now we have had cool, wet weather that included four frosts (we had to cover them with giant row-covers), although they were conveniently followed by bright sun in the morning and did minimal damage. Then, just two weeks after the last frost (remember that cold, windy market?) we had mid-90 degree weather that has fast-forwarded the ripening schedule.  Now we have boxes and boxes of red-ripe, sun-sweetened, ORGANIC strawberries ready to pick tomorrow and bring up to Evanston on Saturday. [According to the Environmental Working Group, strawberries are the 2nd most toxic fruit (after peaches) you can buy, wi th 13 pesticides on a single sample.]
 
Our berries have no pesticides, and plenty of flavor. The first berry to ripen is Earliglow, a smallish, very sweet, flavorful berry and most market-goers’ favorite.   We will also have some Honeyoye and maybe some Darselect and Glooscap as well. Eat them straight out of the box, or make . . .
 
Mom’s Old Fashioned Strawberry Shortcake
·         1 quart fresh strawberries, rinsed and hulled
·         1 cup sugar
·         vanilla ice cream
·         2 cups flour
·         1 tablespoon baking powder
·         1/4 teaspoon salt
·         3 tablespoons sugar
·         1/3 cup shortening
·         1 cup milk
Slice strawberries; sprinkle with sugar and let stand to let juice out. Heat oven to 450°. Grease an 8-inch round layer-cake pan. In a mixing bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Cut in shortening with pastry blender or 2 forks until crumbly. Stir in milk until just blended. Pat dough into prepared pan; bake 15 minutes or until golden brown. Split horizontally and fill with berries; top with small scoops of ice cream when served. Top with more berries and berry juice. Alternatively, you can make individual small shortcakes. Bake them until they are golden, split each one and serve with strawberries and ice cream just like the larger one. Serves 6.
 
 Don’t Wait any Longer to Plant your Tomatoes!!
I’ve talked with so many people who bought my plants last spring and then planted gardens for the first time last summer. It is a joy to hear how well their plants did and the creative things they made with them—rich, fiery salsas made with their own Martino’s Roma tomatoes and Conchos jalapeño peppers; creamy baba ganoush from their Long Purple Italian eggplants; inventive pestos blended from basil, cilantro, parsley, and more.
It’s great to hear how much satisfaction and accomplishment they get feel from actually getting to grow their own food. Now they know how we feel!
 
With this past week’s little heat wave, everyone should be in full planting mode. Just in case you need a little more incentive than that, I am offering a Free Tomato Plant with each four tomatoes that you buy at the regular price. I’ll have an entire tray full of some of the most flavorful and interesting varieties of heirloom and hybrid tomatoes for you to choose from. Pick out a traditional hybrid like Italian Goliath, Jetstar, or Red Alert; or experiment with something more unusual like the purple-and-chartreuse-striped Violet Jasper, the meaty and flavorful Striped Roman, the citrusy Purple Calabash. Or compromise with something in between, like the luscious Pink Brandywine! Whether you’re a fan of salsas, spa ghettis, salads, sandwiches, or just chomping down on one whole (maybe with a dash of salt—mmm…), we have a variety for every tomato need.  And with the current economy, it’s a great way to save a little dough while still treating yourself.
 
Remember, all of our plants are grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides and we make our own soil mix using our own black soil and homemade compost. And, we have the largest variety of tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, herbs, and other vegetables or anyone at the Evanston market. Come choose your new favorite!
 
Herb of the week: MINT
Many of you have noticed that my mint offerings have increased greatly in the past year:      
Spearmint (what most people just call “mint”)-This is the mint that I have been selling for nine years now. It is very versatile and can be used for many dishes including vegetables, meats, sauces and pestos, salads, teas, and mixed drinks (yes, mint mojitos!), as well as desserts. It is my most popular mint.
Peppermint-This mint is used mainly for teas and other drinks, and desserts. It has a very cooling minty menthol flavor. Try it iced! 
Marilyn’s Famous Chocolate Mint- I got this mint from our friends, the Wettsteins. Marilyn makes delicious iced tea for her family and helpers on their farm and it is always a hit. It is the best chocolate mint that I have ever tasted—just like the mint in those York peppermint patties.  
Ginger Mint-This is one of two mints that John Swenson (Evanston market-goer and famous plant breeder and seed saver…. come buy his Speckled Roman tomato plant from me!) gave me.   It is technically a peppermint variety, but it has tones of warm spiciness. It goes very well with fruit.  
Wrigley’s Spearmint- This is the other mint that John gave me. This plant has beautiful, large, crinkled leaves. When I eat this mint, it really does conjure up those days when our grandmother used to dole out the half pieces of Wrigley’s gum to us grandchildren. Very sweet. 
Cuban Mojito Mint- In the middle of the summer, probably a good half of my mint is sold to people who are making mint mojitos, so I thought it was time to grow some authentic mojito mint. This mint is another very pretty large-leaved spearmint that actually tastes similar to my regular spearmint (mint) but perhaps a little sweeter.  
Missouri Mint-My intern, Keegan, gave me this mint last year. His family uses it in spaghetti sauce like basil. I think its taste is more fruity than basil-like and it’s great with sweet vegetables like carrots, beets, and peas, or with citrus fruits or apples.  But, you might want to try it like Keegan’s family….let me know what you think! 
Wild Mint-My wild mint had a hard winter and only a few small patches remained this spring. I will try to scavenge a few bunches for those of you who love it!
 
Mint Cher­moula-a wonderful Moroccan sauce used as a marinade for fish or chicken. Also wonderful with vegetables, especially sweet ones like beets and carrots, or with potatoes or pasta.
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup each finely chopped pars­ley, fresh cilantro, and mint (125 ml each)
2 cloves finely chopped gar­lic
1/2 cup olive oil (125 ml)
1 tsp each paprika and ground cumin (5 ml each)
salt to taste
Mix all ingre­di­ents. Makes about 1 1/2 cups (375 ml).
 
Citrus mint cooler
      1 cup minty simple syrup  
2        cups fresh lemon juice (or the juice of about 12 lemons)
1 bottle (33.8 ounce) club soda (try one with a lime or lemon twist for more citrus flavor)
Mix all of the ingredients in a pitcher, and add some lemon and orange slices and some fresh mint leaves. Beautiful and refreshing!
 
Minty simple syrup
This sweet concoction is made from sugar, water, and mint leaves. You can store it in the fridge for about two weeks, so make up a batch using the following recipe 
1/2 cups packed fresh mint leaves
1 cup organic sugar or honey (or 1/4 cup agave nectar)
1 cup water
2 drops peppermint essential oil (optional)
1 drop spearmint essential oil (optional)
Chop the mint leaves. Boil the first 3 ingredients and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Boil gently for another 2 minutes. Strain your syrup, but squish all the yumminess out of the mint leaves as you do. Add the essential oil if desired.
 
 
Back to Henry’s Farm Notes
The rain has been a good thing, and you’ll see the results in the big heads of lettuces and sweet juicy spinach this week. But we also see the results of the rains and warm weather in the grasses and weeds, which are hardier and faster-growing than our domesticated vegetables.
As I was helping to harvest CSA radishes on Tuesday, I couldn’t help but worry about the thin strands of tiny onion sprouts from the onion seeds that Henry planted along with the radish seeds. (Radishes are fast growing and get harvested out in about 3 weeks, opening the row for the slower growing onions) The hair-like onion seedlings were struggling toward the light through a canopy of fat-leaved grasses about 5 times their size . . . meaning it’s time for serious weeding. 
But tomorrow we won’t be weeding; we’ll be harvesting for you . . . and in addition to all the wonderful sorrel, chives, spinach, radishes and rhubarb you’ve had the past few weeks, you’ll see many more varieties of lettuces and chois, plus more carrots and the first of the kohlrabi and Japanese turnips . . . and sculpit.

 Last year we introduced you to the Italian herb agretti, and this year we’re bringing you the relatively unheard of (outside of Italy) sculpit, from s’ciopet (
battling botanists classify it as either Silene cucubalus, S. vulgaris or S. inflate – but it’s know commonly as bladder campion). And from what we would consider a weed, the Italians have created the classic Veronese "Risotto con gli s'ciopet" (recipe below)
 
Found on the edge of crop fields and in forests and mountain pastures, sculpit is harvested early in the season, before the flowers appear.  Some say sculpit tastes like a blend of arugula, chicory and tarragon . . . but it’s milder than that would suggest, with a flavor all its own. In addition to the being used in risotto and pasta, the leaves are used in soups and salads, vegetables and main courses.  
 
And in Galeata, a village in Emilia-Romanga, they have a festa each year to celebrate the lowly sculpit.   The town's streets come alive with stalls, while in Piazza Gramsci there’s a food stand where local chefs demonstrate dishes using sculpit, especially pasta and ravioli.   
 
Below is a fairly vague recipe I found on the Emilia-Romanga website for Tagliatelle agli Stridoli, and then a fairly involved recipe for the classic Veronese risotto. Give them a whirl if you like, but I’m going to go for simplicity, and just add some sculpit to my next salad or soup, and throw some into scrambled eggs or a quiche.
 
http://www.emiliaromagnaturismo.it/english/gastronomy/receipt.asp?Numrec=185
Tagliatelle with Sculpit
Ingredients: 2 sausages, 2 slices of pancetta, 4 ripe tomatoes, 300 g. of sculpit, 400 g of tagliatelle pasta, extra virgin olive oil.
Preparation: Cook the sausages in a pan with a little oil and the diced pancetta; cook until golden brown, then add fresh tomatoes and sculpit. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water, drain it, and place the pasta in the pan with the sauce, frying it for a few seconds

Risotto Veronese
2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
2 celery stems, and a few leaves
1 onion
1/2 bunch Italian parsley
2-3 new carrots, coarsely chopped
1 kohlrabi or Japanese turnip - it adds a nice touch of sweetness
1.5 liters of water
10 peppercorns
1 or 2 bunches of sculpit leaves
coarse sea salt to taste

Heat the olive oil in a pan and cook the celery, carrots, kohlrabi, onion, and parsley for 2-3 minutes before adding the water. Add the peppercorns, bring to a boil, cover and then simmer for about 15 minutes. Then add the sculpit and simmer another 15 minutes. 
For the rice:
1 onion
2 Tb olive oil or butter
3 cups of risotto rice (Vialone nano)
100 ml Soave or other dry white wine
one bunch of sculpit leaves, finely chopped
2 handfuls of Grana Padano/Parmigiano Reggiano (or half/half with Pecorino Romano for an intenser flavor)
a knob of well chilled butter
a drizzle of olive oil and freshly ground black pepper
sea salt

Chop the onion and cook in the olive oil or butter. Add a little salt and when the onion  turns glassy add the rice. When the rice is translucent slowly add the wine. Just before turning off the heat, add the finely chopped sculpit leaves, stir well for one minute and turn off the heat.
Stir in the Grana Padano/Parmigiano and the butter. Let the risotto rest for one minute.
Decorate the plate with 2-3 sculpit leaves, drizzle with olive oil, and add some chips of Grana/Parmigiano. Grind some pepper and ...enjoy with more Soave Classico.
And finally . . .  don’t forget that radishes are great cooked.  (We knew this long before the NY Times brought it to your attention a week or two ago.)  Simply slice and add them to a soup, or into a stir-fry. 
 
Braised Komatsuna with Green Garlic and Radishes
 
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch radishes, sliced thinly (or use Japanese turnips, thinly sliced)
1 head and stem green garlic, finely chopped
2 bunches komatsuna, leaves and stems coarsely chopped
1/3 cup water
 
Cook garlic and radishes in oil over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 1 minute. Add greens and water and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
 
Happy Eating, and Thanks from all of us at Henry’s Farm   
 

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